Michael Twitty emphasizes importance of connection through food at first Food & Culture Festival

Photo via Carson Caprella

Abigail Finke | Contributing Writer

Author and food historian Michael Twitty, keynote presenter at the University of Dayton’s first
Food & Culture Festival, delivered a powerful story about connecting with his ancestors through
food.

Students, faculty, and the Dayton community gathered at the Roger Glass Center for the Arts on
Feb. 5 to hear the two-time James Beard Foundation Book of the Year winner and
winner of the Jewish Book Award for “Koshersoul,” where he reflects on his life as a Jewish
African American.

He noted the root of farming and the traditions brought to America by enslaved Africans.

“My work is about restoring dignity to my ancestors,” Twitty said, explaining that sitting and
eating together was a way of expressing hope for enslaved groups because they didn’t know
what the next day held or if they’d get to do that again.

To Twitty, food is something that “reminds you where you came from.” Being aware of a dish’s
origin is vital to understanding the history of the people who created it. Something as simple as
rice and beans has a deep background, whether we realize it or not, he said to cite an example.

During his conversation with Dr. Samuel Dorf, alumni chair in humanities, Twitty attributed his
love of food to his maternal grandmother, who taught him agency from a young age. His
grandparents moved from Birmingham, Alabama, to the Cincinnati area during the Great
Migration, bringing their southern recipes with them.

Twitty also mentioned the influence free museums had on him growing up in Washington, D.C.:
“The most dangerous thing I was ever taught to do was read.” His education played a major rolein
inspiring him to dive deeper into the history of food.

Focusing on the intersection of different foods is important to Twitty. He spoke about his
experience adapting a pastrami eggroll recipe to include collard greens, creating a more flavorful
version. In New Orleans, matzoh ball gumbo combines traditional Jewish and Creole cuisine, a
staple of the Jewish community there. Being at the crossroads of Jewish and African American
identity, Twitty said he can flow through these cultures smoothly, allowing his creativity to
shine while writing recipes.

Twitty urged the audience to think more intently about the history of the food they eat. He stuck
around to sign copies of “Recipes From the American South,” his latest cookbook, after the
event.

The University of Dayton Food & Culture Festival continued into the weekend with
performances of “Bon Appétit” (1981) and “The Cook-Off” (2023) presented by the Dayton
Opera.

EDITOR’S NOTE: Abigail Finke is enrolled in the Flyer News Practicum, which offers students
experiential experiences in the journalism arts. The Practicum, an elective in the Department of
Communication curriculum, College of Arts and Sciences, is offered fall and spring.